Auto Electrician, Sunshine Coast

Diesel & 4WD Auto Electrician at Warana

Got an intermittent fault that drives you mad? A battery that keeps going flat, dash lights you can’t clear, an accessory that won’t power up? Our auto electrician puts it on the scanner and the meter, sorts out wiring and looms, and fits dual battery and lithium systems the right way at our Warana workshop on the Sunshine Coast. We track down the cause. No guessing.

There’s a lot of electronics packed into a modern diesel or 4WD. You’ve got CAN-bus networks talking to each other, control modules everywhere, sensors hanging off the turbo and the fuel rail, then a pile of accessory loads the factory never accounted for. So when something electrical plays up it hardly ever throws one clean code that points you straight at it. Start swapping parts to chase it and the bill climbs quick. We do it differently. Read the live data, test the circuit, follow the wiring, and prove what’s actually wrong before we put a price on the repair. Get that right and the fix sticks instead of bouncing back a month later.

Our auto electricians take on the lot across diesels, utes, 4WDs and 4×4 touring rigs. Fault-finding on CAN-bus vehicles is bread and butter. Loom and wiring repairs get done properly, crimped and soldered and heat-shrunk, none of this tape-and-hope business you find later half melted in the engine bay. And we handle full accessory fit-outs: dual-battery setups, DC-DC chargers, driving lights, winches, fridges, inverters, UHF. The stuff that strands you on the side of the road gets sorted too. Starting and charging faults across alternators, batteries and starters, traced back to the part that’s actually cooked rather than throwing a new battery at it and hoping.

Every job kicks off with a diagnosis. We scan for stored and live faults, check voltage drop and earths, and nail down what’s failing before a single part touches the car. You’ll get a straight explanation of what’s gone wrong and a firm quote before we lift a spanner. The wiring we repair or build is meant to last. Quality components, a tidy waterproofed finish that’ll cop corrugations, water crossings and years of touring without letting go.

Supplied & Fitted

Lithium and dual battery fitting at Warana

We sell the Custom Lithium range and fit it in our own workshop at Warana. Buy the kit from us, book the fitting, and drop the vehicle off. Custom Lithium batteries are made in Brisbane. Most of their vehicle kits put the battery behind the rear seat, so the tub and canopy stay free.

Vehicle-specific kit

Behind the rear seat. Kits for the HiLux N70, N80 and N90, LandCruiser 79, Ranger, Everest, D-Max, MU-X, BT-50, Navara, Patrol Y62, Amarok and Gladiator.

  • Kits from $1,389.00
  • Fitment from $1,150*

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Battery in the canopy, tray or cab

Custom Lithium Ultra Slim, Slim and Compact batteries for canopies, trays, campers and trailers, with the DC-DC charging and wiring to suit.

  • Batteries from $810.00
  • Fitment from $1,450*

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DC-DC, solar and monitoring

Redarc and Victron DC-DC chargers, Victron solar regulators and battery monitors, added to a new or existing setup.

  • Chargers & regulators from $129.00
  • Fitment from $575*

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*Depends on the make and model of your vehicle. Contact us for an accurate quote and to discuss your needs.

Fitting by vehicle: HiLux · LandCruiser 79 · Ranger & Everest · D-Max, MU-X & BT-50 · Patrol & Navara · Gladiator
New to dual batteries? Read our dual battery and lithium setup guide.

What We Service

Auto electrical services we provide

Diagnostics & Fault-Finding
Find the real cause
CAN-bus and electrical faults traced on the scanner and the meter. Voltage-drop and earth testing first, before any parts go near the car.
Wiring & Loom Repair
Repaired to last
Damaged, rodent-chewed and corroded looms rebuilt with proper crimps, solder and heat-shrink, then waterproofed and tied back in place.
Dual-Battery & Accessory Fit-Out
Power that stays put
Dual-battery and DC-DC systems, fuse blocks, fridges, inverters and the rest of your touring electrics, wired in clean and protected.
Starting & Charging
Reliable cranking
Alternators, batteries and starter motors tested and repaired, with the failed part proven before we replace it.
Diagnose & Repair

Why choose Willy’s for auto electrical

Diagnostics & Wiring

CAN-bus fault-finding and loom repair on modern diesels and 4WDs, worked off test data instead of a hunch.

  • Live data, voltage-drop & earth testing
  • Intermittent & hard-to-find faults traced
  • Looms repaired, waterproofed & secured

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Dual-Battery & Touring Electrics

Dual-battery systems, DC-DC chargers, lights, winches, fridges and UHF, all wired in clean for serious touring.

  • Dual-battery & DC-DC charging set up right
  • Driving lights, winch & fridge wiring
  • Fused, protected & built for corrugations

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Starting & Charging

No-start, flat-battery and charge-warning faults run down to the part that’s actually failed, not a blanket battery swap.

  • Alternator, starter & battery testing
  • Charge-warning & no-crank faults fixed
  • Pairs with a full diesel service

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Know The Signs

Signs you need an auto electrician

Seeing any of these? Book a diagnostic before an intermittent fault leaves you stranded somewhere awkward.

  • Battery flat overnight or a hidden parasitic drain
  • Battery or charge-warning light on the dash
  • Slow, lazy cranking or an intermittent no-start
  • Dash warning lights that won’t clear
  • Flickering lights, gauges or accessories
  • Accessory, fridge or winch that won’t power up
  • Blown fuses or a burning-plastic smell
  • Electrical gremlins that come and go with bumps or rain
Vehicles We Wire

Vehicles we look after

Daily diesels through to fully kitted touring rigs. We handle the electrical side across the lot:

Diesel Utes & 4x4s
The bulk of our work: HiLux, Ranger, D-Max, Triton and the rest
Touring & Camper Rigs
Dual-battery, fridge, inverter and accessory fit-outs
Cars & SUVs
Diesel and petrol cars and SUVs, European and Asian
Light Trucks
Light and medium diesel trucks, fleet vehicles included
Trailers & Caravans
Trailer plugs, brake controllers and 12V wiring

The models we see most:

  • Toyota HiLux, LandCruiser & Prado
  • Ford Ranger & Everest
  • Isuzu D-Max & MU-X
  • Mazda BT-50
  • Nissan Navara & Patrol
  • Mitsubishi Triton & Pajero Sport
  • Volkswagen Amarok
  • Holden Colorado & Trailblazer
  • Jeep, Land Rover & European diesels
  • Caravans, campers & touring trailers
The Difference

Why drivers trust Willy’s Workshop

Diagnostics-first
We test, scan and prove the fault before quoting, no parts-cannon repairs
Wiring done properly
Crimped, soldered, heat-shrunk and waterproofed to survive touring and water crossings
Touring fit-outs
Dual-battery, DC-DC, lighting and accessory systems wired clean and fused
Quality components
Genuine and trusted brands on charging, wiring and accessory hardware
Warana workshop
In-house auto electrician on the Sunshine Coast
Diesel and 4WD auto electrical work at Willys Workshop
FAQ

Auto electrical FAQs

Can you find an intermittent electrical fault?
Yeah, that’s most of what we do. We read the live data, test voltage drop and earths, and work the wiring methodically instead of swapping parts and hoping one of them does the trick. Intermittent faults take patience to catch, so we book the time, run it down to the real cause and prove it before we quote you a repair.
Do you fit dual-battery systems?
Yes. We install dual-battery and DC-DC charging systems for touring and work vehicles, sized to whatever you’re running. Auxiliary battery, isolator or DC-DC charger, fuse block and the wiring to feed a fridge, lights and the rest of your accessories. All of it fitted clean, fused and protected.
My battery keeps going flat. What causes that?
Nine times out of ten it’s a parasitic drain, a tired battery, a charging fault, or something accessory left live. We test the battery and charging system, then measure the drain to see what’s pulling current with the key off. Once we know which one it is, we quote the fix. We don’t just sell you a new battery and send you on your way.
Can you wire up driving lights, a winch and a fridge?
Yes. Driving lights, light bars, winches, fridges, inverters, UHF, the lot, with proper relays, fusing and switching behind it. Everything runs tidy, protected and waterproofed so it holds together over corrugations and through water crossings.
Do you work on modern CAN-bus diesels?
Yes. Late-model diesels and 4WDs run CAN-bus networks and a stack of control modules, and that’s exactly where guessing turns into a big bill. We scan for stored and live faults and test the circuits properly, so accessory wiring and repairs get done without upsetting the vehicle’s electronics.
How much does auto electrical work cost?
Depends on the job. Could be a quick diagnostic, could be a full touring fit-out. Either way we start with a diagnosis to confirm what’s actually wrong, then give you a firm quote before any work goes ahead. You’ll know where you stand before we start, and there’s no surprise extras tacked on at the end.
Can you repair a damaged or chewed wiring loom?
Yes. Rodent-chewed, corroded, heat-damaged, even looms some previous bloke has butchered. All repairable. We rebuild them with proper crimps, solder and heat-shrink, then waterproof and tie the repair down so it lasts. Tape over the problem and you’ll just see it again.
Is it the alternator, battery or starter?
We test all three rather than assume. Slow cranking, a charge light, a no-start, any of those can come from any of them, plus the cabling and earths in between. We confirm which component has actually let go before we replace anything, so you’re not paying for parts the car didn’t need.
Where should a DC-DC charger be mounted?
Close to the auxiliary battery, and out of the heat. Bolt one somewhere under the bonnet with no airflow around it and it throttles its own charge rate back to protect itself, so you never see the output you paid for. Mounting it near the second battery, which is usually in the cab, keeps the running temperature down and shortens the cable run, which cuts the voltage drop between the charger and the battery.
What has to be worked out before a dual-battery install?
Four things, before anything gets bolted in. What your factory alternator actually puts out, where the second battery can physically live, how it gets mounted so it cannot move on corrugations, and what cable size the run needs. Undersize the cable and you lose voltage on the way to the battery, so it never charges properly no matter how good the charger is.
How long should a battery last, and what kills them early?
Vibration cracking the internal plates, sulfation, internal shorts and long spells of heat are what finish most of them off. Once one is past about three years and no longer holding charge, it is usually done. Keeping the terminals clean and free of corrosion helps, and if the vehicle sits for weeks at a time a battery maintainer will add years to it.
Can I buy a Custom Lithium kit from you and have it fitted?
Yes. Order the kit on our site or over the phone, then book the fitting at Warana. We’ll check the kit suits your vehicle before you order, and fit it when it arrives. If you already own a Custom Lithium kit, we can fit that too.
How much does it cost to fit a dual battery?
Fitment for a behind-seat vehicle kit starts from $1,150, a battery in a canopy or tray from $1,450, and a DC-DC charger on its own from $575, including the cabling and fuses. It depends on the make and model of your vehicle, so contact us for an accurate quote and to discuss your needs.
Where do you do auto electrical work?
At our Warana workshop on the Sunshine Coast, where our auto electrician is based. Our Oxley workshop in Brisbane does diesel mechanical work. If you’re in Brisbane, call us and we’ll tell you what we can do there.
Warana, Sunshine Coast

Book your vehicle in

Fault-finding, wiring and lithium fitting at our Warana workshop. Call us or send the details through and we’ll book you in.